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- Valorização de recursos endógenos em Tierras de Miranda de l Burro i l GueiteiroPublication . Palmeira, Luís; Santos, Briolanja; Possamai, Fernanda; Cruz, Luís Royer Oliveira; Rodrigues, Joana Almeida; Novais, Cláudia; Sousa, Maria João; Pereira, Olívia R.; Cabo, Paula; Pires, LuísaO Planalto Mirandês é uma região com forte identidade cultural, incluindo a Raça Asinina de Miranda, em risco de extinção. Um projeto de cocriação no âmbito do EMER-N desenvolveu soluções para a criação de valor na atividade turística, incluindo o desenvolvimento de três sais de banho enriquecidos com leite de burra, com benefícios anti-envelhecimento e propriedades antioxidantes. Esses sais de banho aromatizados, juntamente com o ambiente relaxante da região, oferecem uma experiência turística autêntica e diferenciada, transformando o tratamento em um verdadeiro tratamento Spa para a mente e corpo.
- Desenvolvimento de uma formulação cosmética de gel anti-idade com extratos de plantas espontâneos e cultivares de Humulus lupulus LPublication . Santos, Briolanja; Sousa, Maria JoãoApesar de mais envelhecida, e talvez por isso mesmo, a população em geral dá bastante relevância à sua aparência, recorrendo cada vez mais à utilização de produtos cosméticos. O processo de envelhecimento da pele resulta da perda das funções fisiológicas, morfológicas e propriedades bioquímicas, determinadas por factores extrínsecos e intrínsecos, deste modo devem ser tomadas precauções, no sentido de controlar e ou retardar esse processo. É determinante conhecer a estrutura e fisiologia da pele de modo a compreender como atuam os produtos cosméticos para que, desta forma, se possa combater o seu envelhecimento. As formulações cosméticas são compostas por veículo, princípio activo e excipientes, que, dependendo dos objectivos, são necessários ter em conta e especial cuidado na sua utilização, nomeadamente ao tipo de pele, local de acção e efeito desejado. De acordo com a Farmacopeia Portuguesa, os géis são preparações cosméticas, constituídas por líquidos gelificados com auxílio de agentes gelificantes para aplicação cutânea. Assim o Lúpulo (Humulus lupulus L.) é conhecido mundialmente como um sabor essencial na indústria cervejeira. Seus compostos têm demonstrado benefícios à saúde nos perfis fitoquímicos, farmacológico e biológico, devido às suas actividades antimicrobiana, antioxidante, anti-inflamatória e anticancerígeno. No entanto é empregado em diversos fins, nomeadamente na indústria cosmética, em perfumes, champôs, loções e cremes. A sua utilização no gel tem como função principal, aliviar os sinais de envelhecimento da pele, tornando as rugas menos evidentes e melhoria da estrutura e firmeza da pele, através da acção do xanthohumol, um prenil flavonóide produzido exclusivamente na planta de Humulus lupulus L. Este estudo pretende desenvolver uma formulação em gel incorporando extractos hidroalcoólicos das diferentes cultivares de Lúpulo Cascade, Polaris e Lúpulo espontâneo, a partir de cones e partes vegetais, em diferentes percentagens. O óleo essencial de Thymus zygis zygis foi utilizado como conservante natural e a análise da sua composição foi feita por GC e GC-MS. Posteriormente foi feita avaliação dos parâmetros físico-químicos, estabilidade e capacidade de inibir o crescimento antimicrobiano do gel. Os resultados da medição do pH das formulações é que são muito estáveis e levemente ácidas. A densidade relativa obteve valores de 1 e 0,857. Verificou-se que não houve alterações na separação de fases nos testes de temperatura e humidade, temperaturas, vibração mecânica e centrifugação. No entanto, foram observadas alterações nos espectros de UV-Visível, na textura, consistência e viscosidade, e no teste de cor. No teste de luz houve separação de fases nas amostras, o que pode indicar alguma instabilidade da formulação. Na identificação dos compostos fenólicos do Lúpulo verificamos que o xanthohumol só se encontra nas flores. No teste antimicrobiano confirmamos que o óleo de tomilho tem propriedades antibacterianas e antifúngicas e o Lúpulo propriedades antifúngicas. Com isto, foi possível confirmar qual o melhor extracto para a formulação cosmética, no qual obtemos a variedade Polaris com extracto hidroalcoólico de cones de Lúpulo a 2,5%. Para avaliação do produto cosmético foi feito um estudo em painel de voluntários em que obtivemos uma opinião geralmente positiva, em relação ao gel com extracto versus controlo. No geral, a realização deste trabalho permitiu confirmar que a incorporação de extractos hidroalcoólicos de Lúpulo em formulações de gel de metilcelulose, obteve-se bons resultados de estabilidade físico-química, as características organolépticas mantendo-se ao longo do tempo, a sua estabilidade microbiológica e a presença de compostos bioactivos podem ser usados na formulação cosmética em pesquisas futuras. Quanto à sua bioactividade, Humulus lupulus L. apresentou propriedades: antimicrobianas, antioxidantes, anti-inflamatórias e anticancerígenas, Por ser uma região rica em Lúpulo. O desenvolvimento de produtos cosméticos natural com extractos de Lúpulo, com base nas suas propriedades, poderá ser uma mais valia para a região.
- Review hops - bioactive compounds and their applicationsPublication . Santos, Briolanja; Sousa, Maria JoãoHumulus lupulus L. it’s the scientific name of a perennial climbing plant of great importance because of its biocompounds of interest such as: organic acids, polyphenols and essential oils. The female inflorescences (cones) of hops glands secrete mainly lupulin. This is known worldwide as an essential raw material and flavoring agent in beer production. Phytochemical compounds from the plant such as xanthohumol, humulone, and lupulone have been used in trials for cosmetic application. Also the use of the plant has been reported for long time in traditional medicine, due to its properties, anti inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant among others. This review presents the botanical aspects of the plant as well as its chemical compounds, traditional uses, and its biological activities for textile, food, medicinal, and cosmetic applications.
- Bioactive compounds of spontaneous hop and hop in cultivars in the northeast of PortugalPublication . Santos, Briolanja; Pedro, Luís G.; Pereira, Olívia R.; Goes, Hugo; Cardoso, Susana M.; Sousa, Maria JoãoHop, whose scientific name is Humulus lupulus L., is a species of the family Cannabaceae, with climbing, perennial and dioecious characteristics of great importance due to its compounds of interest such as polyphenols and acids. The female inflorescences have glands that secrete mainly lupulin. Hop is known worldwide as an essential raw material and flavoring agent in beer production. Phytochemical compounds from the plant such as xanthohumol, humulone and lupulone have also been used in cosmetics. Moreover, the plant has beneficial properties -anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant. The area of Bragança (Trás-os-Montes) is rich in spontaneous hop and cultivars. The samples of spontaneous hop were collected in different areas of the Bragança district and were analyzed and compared to the varieties of cultivars (Nugget, Polaris, Cascade, Centennial and Chinook). The volatiles extracted from the female cones, in a LikensNickerson system, were analyzed by GC and GC-MS. The α- and β-acids, from where extracted with calibration standard ICE-3 and analyzed by HPLC. Characterization of α- and β-acids, and of the phenolic profile of the Hop samples, was also performed by UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MSn. The cultivars and their respective spontaneous varieties showed similarities in the monoterpenic component, with β-myrcene as the main compound. Regarding HPLC analyses, cultivars showed total values about 15% of α-acids and about 4% of β-acids, while the spontaneous variety showed 7% of α-acids and 9% of β-acids, corresponding to the compounds cohumulona, humulone, colupulona, lupulona and xanthohumol. Quercetin and kaempferol glycosides were also present in some extracts as minor compounds.
- Development of a cosmetic anti-aging gel formulation with extracts of spontaneous plants and cultivars of Humulus lupulus L.Publication . Santos, Briolanja; Pereira, Olívia R.; Afonso, Andrea Luísa Fernandes; Pedro, Luís G.; Cardoso, Susana M.; Sousa, Maria JoãoHop (Humulus lupulus L.) is known worldwide as an essential flavor in the beer industry. Its major compounds have been demonstrated to be associated to health benefits, due to its antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anticancer activities [1]. This study intended to develop and to evaluate the stability of an anti-aging cosmetic gel by incorporation of different percentages of hydroalcoholic extracts obtained from cones (flowers) and vegetative parts (leaves) of hop spontaneous and of the Cascade and Polaris cultivars and essential oil of Thymus zygis. In addition, the phytochemical profile and antimicrobial activities determination of hop extracts and of essential oil of thymus were performed. A methylcellulose gel formulation was used as base to develop the hop cosmetic product. Subsequently, several parameters were evaluated to address its physical-chemical stability. In addition to that, the phenolic profile of hop extracts was determined by UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS2 [2] while the composition of thyme essential oil was done by GC and GC-MS. The ability to inhibit the microbial growth was performed by microdilution broth method and the diffusion in agar test. Contrary to hop extracts, thyme oil has shown to exert antibacterial and antifungal activities and thus, it was added to the formulation as preservative. Carvacrol, terpinen-4-ol and p-cimene, determined as major compounds in this oil, could be important contributors for these activities. The extracts obtained from hop cones were rich in phenolic compounds such as cohumulone, humulone and xanthohumol, which have been claimed as possessing anti-wrinkle effect [3]. Concerning stability of the formulations, no phase separation was observed in the centrifugation, mechanical vibration tests or the color tests. However, changes were observed in the UV-Visible spectra between 300nm to 350nm wavelengths, probably by presence of the phenolic compounds such as example xanthohumol, cohumulona, humulona and lupulona [3]. In texture by back extrusion, only the formulation with the extracts of the Polaris variety has high consistency and low viscosity. In the light test there was phase separation in the samples due to the occurrence of dehydration, to minimize this effect, it must be properly in a non-transparent packaging to protect from light. Overall, the incorporation of hydroalcoholic extracts of hop and essential oil of thyme in methylcellulose gel formulations, especially with Polaris variety with 2.5% hydroalcoholic extract of hop cones, allow to obtained a stable cosmetic with potential as anti-aging take into account the chemical composition.
- Consumers behavior and perceptions regarding natural cosmetic productsPublication . Possamai, Fernanda; Jelidi, Sarra; Santos, Briolanja; Pereira, Olívia R.; Cabo, Paula; Sousa, Maria JoãoIn the last decades, the increasing concerns related with sustainability and the emergence of ethical concerns related to the production and consumption of cosmetics, as well as, the verification of the adverse effects of chemical additives present in cosmetics for human health and the environment, have driven the growth of green cosmetics. Natural substances, derived from plants, animals or other organisms are increasingly popular as ingredients in cosmetics for being considered by consumers as safety alternatives to synthetic cosmetics. This work aims to analyze the habits and perceptions of consumers regarding natural cosmetics products. A cross-sectional study was carried out based on a sample of 222 individuals’ ages between 18 and 74 years old. Respondents were mainly female (75%), young urban adults, employed, with higher education. Most of the respondents use cosmetics daily, and considers them important (48%) or essential (34%), particularly the hygiene and skin care products. The median amount of monthly spend on cosmetic products are of 20 €. Super and hypermarkets (34.5%), and pharmacies and parapharmacies (31%) are the most relevant places for buying cosmetic products although the internet (8%) and catalogues sales (7%) are also significant. The importance of internet is also present has source of information about the products (40%), seconded by beauty professionals (27%). The great majority of the respondents uses natural cosmetic products, although not often organic ones. Despite the respondents’ considerable familiarity with natural cosmetic products, results display some misconceptions about these products still present in consumers’ minds.
- Physical-chemical properties of the phenolic compounds of Humulus lupulus and aromatic plant terpenes: potential for use in a cosmetic formulationPublication . Santos, Briolanja; Pereira, Olívia R.; Pedro, Luís G.; Sousa, Maria JoãoThe Hop (Humulus lupulus L.) are known worldwide as an essential flavor in the beer industry. Its compounds have been showing health benefits in terms ofphytochemical, pharmacological and biological profiles, due to their antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anticancer activities. This study intends todevelop a gel formulation incorporating hydroalcoholic extracts of different varieties of hops such as Cascade, Polaris and Spontaneous, from the cones and thevegetative plant parts, in different percentages. The essential oil of Thymus zygis was used as a natural conservative and the analysis of the composition was made byGC and GC-MS. Later evaluation of the physical-chemical parameters, stability and capacity to inhibit microbial growth was made. The pH measurement results of theformulations tend to be adjusted to the natural pH skin. The relative density obtained values of 1 and 0.857. It was found that there were no changes in the phase separation in the centrifugation, vibration, stability and accelerated test. However, changes were observed in the UV-Visible spectra, in texture, consistency and viscosity, and in the color test. In the light test there was phase separation in the samples, which may be related to the manufacturing technique of the formulations.However, this formulations anti aging with phenols from Hop can be development in order to obtain formulations with relevant properties for the consumers and the cosmetic industry.
- Consumers behavior and perceptions regarding natural cosmetic productsPublication . Possamai, Fernanda; Jelidi, Sarra; Santos, Briolanja; Pereira, Olívia R.; Cabo, Paula; Sousa, Maria JoãoIn the last decades, the increasing concerns related with sustainability and the emergence of ethical concerns related to the production and consumption of cosmetics, as well as, the verification of the adverse effects of chemical additives present in cosmetics for human health and the environment, have driven the growth of green cosmetics. Natural substances, derived from plants, animals or other organisms are increasingly popular as ingredients in cosmetics for being considered by consumers as safety alternatives to synthetic cosmetics. This work aims to analyze the habits and perceptions of consumers regarding natural cosmetics products. A cross-sectional study was carried out based on a sample of 222 individuals’ ages between 18 and 74 years old. Respondents were mainly female (75%), young urban adults, employed, with higher education. Most of the respondents use cosmetics daily, and considers them important (48%) or essential (34%), particularly the hygiene and skin care products. The median amount of monthly spend on cosmetic products are of 20 €. Super and hypermarkets (34.5%), and pharmacies and parapharmacies (31%) are the most relevant places for buying cosmetic products although the internet (8%) and catalogues sales (7%) are also significant. The importance of internet is also present has source of information about the products (40%), seconded by beauty professionals (27%). The great majority of the respondents uses natural cosmetic products, although not often organic ones. Despite the respondents’ considerable familiarity with natural cosmetic products, results display some misconceptions about these products still present in consumers’ minds.
- Development of a cosmetic anti-aging gel formulation with extracts of spontaneous plants and cultivars of Humulus lupulus L.Publication . Santos, Briolanja; Pereira, Olívia R.; Afonso, Andrea Luísa Fernandes; Pedro, Luís G.; Cardoso, Susana M.; Sousa, Maria JoãoHop (Humulus lupulus L.) is known worldwide as an essential flavor in the beer industry. Its major compounds have been demonstrated to be associated to health benefits, due to its antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anticancer activities [1]. This study intended to develop and to evaluate the stability of an anti-aging cosmetic gel by incorporation of different percentages of hydroalcoholic extracts obtained from cones (flowers) and vegetative parts (leaves) of hop spontaneous and of the Cascade and Polaris cultivars and essential oil of Thymus zygis. In addition, the phytochemical profile and antimicrobial activities determination of hop extracts and of essential oil of thymus were performed. A methylcellulose gel formulation was used as base to develop the hop cosmetic product. Subsequently, several parameters were evaluated to address its physical-chemical stability. In addition to that, the phenolic profile of hop extracts was determined by UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS2 [2] while the composition of thyme essential oil was done by GC and GC-MS. The ability to inhibit the microbial growth was performed by microdilution broth method and the diffusion in agar test. Contrary to hop extracts, thyme oil has shown to exert antibacterial and antifungal activities and thus, it was added to the formulation as preservative. Carvacrol, terpinen-4-ol and p-cimene, determined as major compounds in this oil, could be important contributors for these activities. The extracts obtained from hop cones were rich in phenolic compounds such as cohumulone, humulone and xanthohumol, which have been claimed as possessing anti-wrinkle effect [3]. Concerning stability of the formulations, no phase separation was observed in the centrifugation, mechanical vibration tests or the color tests. However, changes were observed in the UV-Visible spectra between 300nm to 350nm wavelengths, probably by presence of the phenolic compounds such as example xanthohumol, cohumulona, humulona and lupulona [3]. In texture by back extrusion, only the formulation with the extracts of the Polaris variety has high consistency and low viscosity. In the light test there was phase separation in the samples due to the occurrence of dehydration, to minimize this effect, it must be properly in a non-transparent packaging to protect from light. Overall, the incorporation of hydroalcoholic extracts of hop and essential oil of thyme in methylcellulose gel formulations, especially with Polaris variety with 2.5% hydroalcoholic extract of hop cones, allow to obtained a stable cosmetic with potential as anti-aging take into account the chemical composition.
- Sustentabilidade de cosméticos com subprodutos do lúpuloPublication . Santos, Briolanja; Coellho, Maria; Sousa, Maria JoãoPretende-se desenvolver uma formulação cosmética (sérum anti-idade) enriquecida com compostos bioactivos de lúpulo de aplicação inovadora na forma semi-sólida em stick, para mais fácil aplicação numa embalagem “plastic-free”. Utilizar-se-ão extratos de cultivares e espontâneos de Lúpulo, comparando o seu perfil químico em dois ambientes de cultura: in vitro, e ex-vitro. Deste modo, utilizamos o material vegetal não utilizado na indústria cervejeira (um subproduto). Trata-se de um excedente da cultura do Lúpulo, que trará benefícios económicos, ecológicos e de sustentabilidade na agricultura, para a região de Trás os Montes, onde esta cultura, está perfeitamente adaptada edafoclimaticamente, tem expressão económica, e tem interesse etnológico/cultural. Foram usadas partes vegetativas (folhas e caules), e os subprodutos não utilizáveis pela indústria (sementes, brácteas e bractéolas). Este material está a ser estudado quanto aos perfis químicos: identificação e análise. Compostos bioativos com potencial cosmético, após avaliação serão aplicados na formulação cosmética natural, com posterior análise da estabilidade físico-química, microbiológica, toxicológica e análise organolética, em painel de voluntários. Pretende-se utilizar biotecnologia que explora sistemas baseados em nanotecnologia ou estratégias de encapsulação como os lipossomas ou nanopartículas lipídicas sólidas (SLN). Estes têm potencial de penetração na pele, melhorando a estabilidade dos fitocompostos na formulação, para uma maior biodisponibilidade na pele.