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Abstract(s)
O presente trabalho teve como objetivo avaliar o potencial do óleo de trigo
Barbela na formulação de “cold creams”, abordando aspetos como a composição química,
atividade antioxidante, estabilidade físico-química, atividade microbiológica, eficácia
cosmética e aceitação pelos consumidores. O óleo apresentou uma composição rica em
ácido linoleico (57-65%) e ácido alfa-linolénico (3-4%), conhecidos pelas suas
propriedades hidratantes e regeneradoras. Adicionalmente, nos testes de compostos
bioativos, foram observados 2,5-5,83 mg GAE/g de fenóis totais que conferem elevada
capacidade antioxidante. No ensaio de atividade antioxidante (DPPH), o óleo de trigo
Barbela apresentou um EC50 de 2,44 mg/mL, evidenciando a sua eficácia na neutralização
de radicais livres e proteção contra o envelhecimento e o stress oxidativo.
A estabilidade físico-química foi avaliada em diferentes condições de temperatura
e humidade. Os testes de pH indicaram que a formulação se manteve estável, com valores
próximos de 6,41 a 6,69 em temperatura ambiente e entre 6,08 e 6,3 sob condições
extremas de 45°C, ideal para aplicação cutânea. A análise revelou que o creme se manteve
consistente em textura, cor e odor, sem separação de fases ou sinais de degradação,
mesmo após ciclos de aquecimento e refrigeração (-25°C a 45°C), demonstrando
viabilidade para comercialização em diferentes condições.
A avaliação da viscosidade revelou que as formulações mantiveram uma
consistência estável ao longo do tempo, sem alterações significativas, o que é importante
para a aplicação e a experiência do consumidor. Além disso, foram realizados testes de
luz para verificar a resistência da fórmula à degradação pela exposição à luz, sendo que
os cremes apresentaram alta resistência e mantiveram suas propriedades estáveis mesmo
após ciclos de exposição à luz intensa, o que aumenta a durabilidade do produto.
Os testes microbiológicos confirmaram a segurança da formulação, evidenciando
resistência à contaminação por microrganismos e uma contribuição do óleo de trigo
Barbela para a atividade antimicrobiana moderada. Já a espectroscopia no infravermelho
próximo (NIR) foi utilizada para avaliar a interação dos cremes com a pele ao longo do
tempo. Esses ensaios mostraram que o creme proporcionou uma hidratação prolongada
de até 8 horas, com absorção eficiente pela pele, demonstrando a eficácia da formulação.
Por fim, um painel de consumidores realizou uma avaliação organolética para
analisar textura, fragrância e eficácia percebida. Os resultados mostraram que 96% dos
participantes recomendariam o creme, destacando a textura agradável e o efeito hidratante como principais pontos positivos. No geral, o óleo de trigo Barbela demonstrou um
grande potencial como ingrediente natural e sustentável para a indústria cosmética,
destacando-se pela sua estabilidade, eficácia antioxidante, segurança microbiológica,
resistência à luz e elevada aceitação pelos consumidores.
The present study aimed to evaluate the potential of Barbela wheat oil in the formulation of cold creams, focusing on aspects such as its chemical composition, antioxidant activity, physicochemical stability, microbiological activity, cosmetic efficacy, and consumer acceptance. The oil was found to be rich in linoleic acid (57-65%) and alpha-linolenic acid (3-4%), known for their moisturizing and regenerative properties. Additionally, bioactive compound testing revealed 2.5-5.83 mg GAE/g of total phenols, which confer a high antioxidant capacity. In the antioxidant activity (DPPH) assay, Barbela wheat oil showed an EC50 of 2.44 mg/mL, demonstrating its effectiveness in neutralizing free radicals and protecting against aging and oxidative stress. Physicochemical stability was evaluated under different temperature and humidity conditions. pH testing indicated that the formulation remained stable, with values ranging from 6.41 to 6.69 at room temperature and between 6.08 and 6.3 under extreme conditions of 45°C, which is ideal for skin application. The analysis revealed that the cream maintained its consistency in texture, color, and odor, without phase separation or signs of degradation, even after cycles of heating and refrigeration (-25°C to 45°C), demonstrating its commercial viability under various conditions. Viscosity evaluation showed that the formulations maintained a stable consistency over time, with no significant changes, which is important for both application and consumer experience. Additionally, light exposure tests were conducted to assess the formula's resistance to degradation from light exposure, and the creams showed high resistance, maintaining their properties stable even after intense light exposure cycles, thus increasing the product's durability. Microbiological tests confirmed the formulation's safety, demonstrating resistance to contamination by microorganisms and a contribution from Barbela wheat oil to moderate antimicrobial activity. Near-Infrared Spectroscopy (NIR) was used to evaluate the interaction of the creams with the skin over time. These tests showed that the cream provided hydration lasting up to 8 hours, with efficient absorption by the skin, demonstrating the formulation's effectiveness. Finally, a consumer panel conducted an organoleptic evaluation to assess texture, fragrance, and perceived efficacy. The results showed that 96% of participants would recommend the cream, with the pleasant texture and moisturizing effect being the main positive points. Overall, Barbela wheat oil demonstrated great potential as a natural and sustainable ingredient for the cosmetic industry, standing out for its stability, antioxidant efficacy, microbiological safety, light resistance, and high consumer acceptance.
The present study aimed to evaluate the potential of Barbela wheat oil in the formulation of cold creams, focusing on aspects such as its chemical composition, antioxidant activity, physicochemical stability, microbiological activity, cosmetic efficacy, and consumer acceptance. The oil was found to be rich in linoleic acid (57-65%) and alpha-linolenic acid (3-4%), known for their moisturizing and regenerative properties. Additionally, bioactive compound testing revealed 2.5-5.83 mg GAE/g of total phenols, which confer a high antioxidant capacity. In the antioxidant activity (DPPH) assay, Barbela wheat oil showed an EC50 of 2.44 mg/mL, demonstrating its effectiveness in neutralizing free radicals and protecting against aging and oxidative stress. Physicochemical stability was evaluated under different temperature and humidity conditions. pH testing indicated that the formulation remained stable, with values ranging from 6.41 to 6.69 at room temperature and between 6.08 and 6.3 under extreme conditions of 45°C, which is ideal for skin application. The analysis revealed that the cream maintained its consistency in texture, color, and odor, without phase separation or signs of degradation, even after cycles of heating and refrigeration (-25°C to 45°C), demonstrating its commercial viability under various conditions. Viscosity evaluation showed that the formulations maintained a stable consistency over time, with no significant changes, which is important for both application and consumer experience. Additionally, light exposure tests were conducted to assess the formula's resistance to degradation from light exposure, and the creams showed high resistance, maintaining their properties stable even after intense light exposure cycles, thus increasing the product's durability. Microbiological tests confirmed the formulation's safety, demonstrating resistance to contamination by microorganisms and a contribution from Barbela wheat oil to moderate antimicrobial activity. Near-Infrared Spectroscopy (NIR) was used to evaluate the interaction of the creams with the skin over time. These tests showed that the cream provided hydration lasting up to 8 hours, with efficient absorption by the skin, demonstrating the formulation's effectiveness. Finally, a consumer panel conducted an organoleptic evaluation to assess texture, fragrance, and perceived efficacy. The results showed that 96% of participants would recommend the cream, with the pleasant texture and moisturizing effect being the main positive points. Overall, Barbela wheat oil demonstrated great potential as a natural and sustainable ingredient for the cosmetic industry, standing out for its stability, antioxidant efficacy, microbiological safety, light resistance, and high consumer acceptance.
Description
Keywords
Creme cosmético Extrato de trigo Barbela Extrato de trigo Espelta Espectroscopia NIR Estabilidade cosmética