Browsing by Author "Possamai, Fernanda"
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- Consumers behavior and perceptions regarding natural cosmetic productsPublication . Possamai, Fernanda; Jelidi, Sarra; Santos, Briolanja; Pereira, Olívia R.; Cabo, Paula; Sousa, Maria JoãoIn the last decades, the increasing concerns related with sustainability and the emergence of ethical concerns related to the production and consumption of cosmetics, as well as, the verification of the adverse effects of chemical additives present in cosmetics for human health and the environment, have driven the growth of green cosmetics. Natural substances, derived from plants, animals or other organisms are increasingly popular as ingredients in cosmetics for being considered by consumers as safety alternatives to synthetic cosmetics. This work aims to analyze the habits and perceptions of consumers regarding natural cosmetics products. A cross-sectional study was carried out based on a sample of 222 individuals’ ages between 18 and 74 years old. Respondents were mainly female (75%), young urban adults, employed, with higher education. Most of the respondents use cosmetics daily, and considers them important (48%) or essential (34%), particularly the hygiene and skin care products. The median amount of monthly spend on cosmetic products are of 20 €. Super and hypermarkets (34.5%), and pharmacies and parapharmacies (31%) are the most relevant places for buying cosmetic products although the internet (8%) and catalogues sales (7%) are also significant. The importance of internet is also present has source of information about the products (40%), seconded by beauty professionals (27%). The great majority of the respondents uses natural cosmetic products, although not often organic ones. Despite the respondents’ considerable familiarity with natural cosmetic products, results display some misconceptions about these products still present in consumers’ minds.
- Consumers behavior and perceptions regarding natural cosmetic productsPublication . Possamai, Fernanda; Jelidi, Sarra; Santos, Briolanja; Pereira, Olívia R.; Cabo, Paula; Sousa, Maria JoãoIn the last decades, the increasing concerns related with sustainability and the emergence of ethical concerns related to the production and consumption of cosmetics, as well as, the verification of the adverse effects of chemical additives present in cosmetics for human health and the environment, have driven the growth of green cosmetics. Natural substances, derived from plants, animals or other organisms are increasingly popular as ingredients in cosmetics for being considered by consumers as safety alternatives to synthetic cosmetics. This work aims to analyze the habits and perceptions of consumers regarding natural cosmetics products. A cross-sectional study was carried out based on a sample of 222 individuals’ ages between 18 and 74 years old. Respondents were mainly female (75%), young urban adults, employed, with higher education. Most of the respondents use cosmetics daily, and considers them important (48%) or essential (34%), particularly the hygiene and skin care products. The median amount of monthly spend on cosmetic products are of 20 €. Super and hypermarkets (34.5%), and pharmacies and parapharmacies (31%) are the most relevant places for buying cosmetic products although the internet (8%) and catalogues sales (7%) are also significant. The importance of internet is also present has source of information about the products (40%), seconded by beauty professionals (27%). The great majority of the respondents uses natural cosmetic products, although not often organic ones. Despite the respondents’ considerable familiarity with natural cosmetic products, results display some misconceptions about these products still present in consumers’ minds.
- Desenvolvimento de uma emulsão sólida utilizando produtos naturais COSMOSPublication . Possamai, Fernanda; Sousa, Maria João; Pereira, Olívia R.O mercado cosmético caminha em constantes atualizações e inovações tecnológicas, no entanto o uso de produtos naturais e de formulações mais tradicionais, que até mesmo se podem reproduzir em casa (handmade) vem se tornando bastante popular entre os consumidores, o que se deve a uma maior consciencialização e preocupação com a origem e procedência dos materiais de consumo. A certificação de produtos naturais, especialmente orgânicos concedida pela assinatura COSMOS preserva ao máximo a integridade dos constituintes de cada componente, de forma ambientalmente adequada e segura para a saúde humana, expandindo o conceito de "química verde". O objetivo principal deste estudo foi desenvolver uma emulsão cosmética hidratante, no formato sólido, passível de certificação COSMOS, garantindo a qualidade deste produto e englobando um novo conceito, que vem crescendo mais a cada dia, de produtos cosméticos sólidos, mas que habitualmente são encontrados em estado líquido ou mesmo em creme. A fim de se atingir a emulsão pretendida, mantendo a proposta de hidratação do produto, 59 testes foram realizados com variações dos compostos e das suas quantidades, especialmente dos sólidos, e avaliados individualmente vários aspetos sensoriais. A emulsão hidratante final passou por testes de estabilidade acelerada em 6 ciclos de 24 horas com temperaturas de 40ºC e -12ºC. Após concluídos os ciclos o pH, a densidade e as características organoléticas foram verificados e comparados com a amostra controlo, apresentando pequenas variações de cor e menor intensidade do aroma, mantendo a hidratação e o estado sólido. As variações de pH foram de 4.68 ± 0.006 para 4.78 ± 0.05 e a densidade manteve-se em 0,73 kg/m3. O extrato polar do subproduto da bolota (Quercus ilex L.), analisado no presente estudo, apresenta como compostos maioritários o trigaloil-HHDP-glicose, dilactona de ácido valoneico e o ácido gálico. Dois questionários foram aplicados ao longo deste estudo, a fim de caracterizar o perfil de consumidores de produtos cosméticos no geral e de cremes hidratantes e também de avaliar a aceitação e feedback da emulsão sólida hidratante desenvolvida após a utilização. A emulsão sólida obtida contém em sua formulação compostos de origem portuguesa, valorizando o mercado interno, como o óleo de grainhas de uva do Douro, azeite e extrato de subprodutos da bolota (Quercus Ilex L.), ricos em antioxidantes e contém ainda óleos essenciais de tangerina, gerânio, sementes de coentro e canela, que trazem propriedades benéficas para a pele e um toque de frescor aveludado ao aroma, aroma este que mostrou ser o segundo ponto que mais agradou os participantes (47,6%) em um inquérito pós uso do “creme sólido”, ficando atrás apenas do efeito de hidratação que obteve 90,5% de aceitação. O desenvolvimento e avaliação da emulsão sólida por uma pequena amostra de 21 indivíduos, revelou uma excelente adesão e satisfação a este produto rico em ácidos gordos insaturados, impulsionando o aprofundamento da investigação e desenvolvimento de produtos de consistência habitualmente líquida para sólida, bem como da qualificação deste subproduto português ainda muito pouco explorado (Quercus ilex L.) utilizado nesta formulação.
- Development of a cosmos solid emulsionPublication . Possamai, Fernanda; Spencer, Ricardo; Cardoso, Susana M.; Sousa, Maria João; Pereira, Olívia R.Natural products are becoming a trend in the cosmetic market, due to a growing awareness and concern with the origin of these products. The certification of natural products, especially organic ones under the COSMOS signature preserves the integrity of the constituents, in an environmentally appropriate and safe for human health, expanding the concept of "green chemistry”, guaranteeing the origin, and processing of the products, storage, manufacturing, packaging, etc. The objective of this study was to develop a moisturizing cosmetic emulsion in the solid format according to COSMOS certification, with guarantee the quality of the product in a new concept of solid cosmetic. 59 tests were carried out to optimise this emulsion, with the best possible hydration level. The different tests included variations in components and their amounts, following be evaluation of sensory aspects for each formulation. The final cosmetic emulsion formulation (Figure 1) contains components of Portuguese origin such as grape seeds oil from Douro Valley, olive oil and extract of by-products of acorn (Quercus Ilex L.) and essential oils of mandarin, geranium, coriander and cinnamon. The formulation has undergone accelerated stability tests with temperatures (40 ºC /-12 ºC). The pH, density and organoleptic characteristics were evaluate. The phenolic profile of acorn by-product (Quercus ilex L.) was performe by UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS2. A questionnaire was applying to evaluate the acceptance after use of the moisturizing cosmetic emulsion. In stability tests, overall the formulation showed small color variations and less aroma intensity, maintaining hydration and solid state. The pH changes were from 4.68 ± 0.006 to 4.78 ± 0.05 and the density was maintaining at 0.73 kg/m3 . The polar extract of acorn by-product have as major compounds trigalloyl-HHDP-glucose, valoneic acid dilactone and gallic acid, known as antioxidants compounds. The essential oils bring beneficial properties to the skin and the aroma. In the post use of solid emulsion survey applied shown that “aroma” was the second point most valorised (47.6%), after “hydration” (90.5%). The results shown that the majority of participants (81.0%) were “very satisfied” or “satisfied” with the solid emulsion indicating the intention to use it if it is on the market (76.2%). This study highlights the research in reformulations from liquid to solid products, and the potential of using Portuguese raw materials such as acorn.
- Development of a cosmos solid emulsionPublication . Possamai, Fernanda; Spencer, Ricardo; Cardoso, Susana M.; Sousa, Maria João; Pereira, Olívia R.Natural products are becoming a trend in the cosmetic market, due to a growing awareness and concern with the origin of these products. The certification of natural products, especially organic ones under the COSMOS signature preserves the integrity of the constituents, in an environmentally appropriate and safe for human health, expanding the concept of "green chemistry”, guaranteeing the origin, and processing of the products, storage, manufacturing, packaging, etc. The objective of this study was to develop a moisturizing cosmetic emulsion in the solid format according to COSMOS certification, with guarantee the quality of the product in a new concept of solid cosmetic. 59 tests were carried out to optimise this emulsion, with the best possible hydration level. The different tests included variations in components and their amounts, following be evaluation of sensory aspects for each formulation. The final cosmetic emulsion formulation (Figure 1) contains components of Portuguese origin such as grape seeds oil from Douro Valley, olive oil and extract of by-products of acorn (Quercus Ilex L.) and essential oils of mandarin, geranium, coriander and cinnamon. The formulation has undergone accelerated stability tests with temperatures (40 ºC /-12 ºC). The pH, density and organoleptic characteristics were evaluate. The phenolic profile of acorn by-product (Quercus ilex L.) was performe by UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS2. A questionnaire was applying to evaluate the acceptance after use of the moisturizing cosmetic emulsion. In stability tests, overall the formulation showed small color variations and less aroma intensity, maintaining hydration and solid state. The pH changes were from 4.68 ± 0.006 to 4.78 ± 0.05 and the density was maintaining at 0.73 kg/m3 . The polar extract of acorn by-product have as major compounds trigalloyl-HHDP-glucose, valoneic acid dilactone and gallic acid, known as antioxidants compounds. The essential oils bring beneficial properties to the skin and the aroma. In the post use of solid emulsion survey applied shown that “aroma” was the second point most valorised (47.6%), after “hydration” (90.5%). The results shown that the majority of participants (81.0%) were “very satisfied” or “satisfied” with the solid emulsion indicating the intention to use it if it is on the market (76.2%). This study highlights the research in reformulations from liquid to solid products, and the potential of using Portuguese raw materials such as acorn.
- Valorização de recursos endógenos em Tierras de Miranda de l Burro i l GueiteiroPublication . Palmeira, Luís; Santos, Briolanja; Possamai, Fernanda; Cruz, Luís Royer Oliveira; Rodrigues, Joana Almeida; Novais, Cláudia; Sousa, Maria João; Pereira, Olívia R.; Cabo, Paula; Pires, LuísaO Planalto Mirandês é uma região com forte identidade cultural, incluindo a Raça Asinina de Miranda, em risco de extinção. Um projeto de cocriação no âmbito do EMER-N desenvolveu soluções para a criação de valor na atividade turística, incluindo o desenvolvimento de três sais de banho enriquecidos com leite de burra, com benefícios anti-envelhecimento e propriedades antioxidantes. Esses sais de banho aromatizados, juntamente com o ambiente relaxante da região, oferecem uma experiência turística autêntica e diferenciada, transformando o tratamento em um verdadeiro tratamento Spa para a mente e corpo.
- Valorização de recursos endógenos em Tierras de Miranda de l Burro i l GueiteiroPublication . Palmeira, Luís; Santos, Briolanja; Possamai, Fernanda; Cruz, Luís Royer Oliveira; Rodrigues, Joana Almeida; Novais, Cláudia; Sousa, Maria João; Pereira, Olívia R.; Pires, LuísaA criação de valor no turismo é alcançada através de experiências autênticas, diferenciadoras e sustentáveis, que preservam os recursos locais. Com base nas propriedades anti-envelhecimento do leite de burra de de raça autóctone, foi desenvolvida uma linha de produtos cosméticos para enriquecer a experiência turística e aumentar o potencial comercial do pacote turístico.