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Advisor(s)
Abstract(s)
Natural products are becoming a trend in the cosmetic market, due to a growing awareness and
concern with the origin of these products. The certification of natural products, especially organic
ones under the COSMOS signature preserves the integrity of the constituents, in an
environmentally appropriate and safe for human health, expanding the concept of "green
chemistry”, guaranteeing the origin, and processing of the products, storage, manufacturing,
packaging, etc. The objective of this study was to develop a moisturizing cosmetic emulsion
in the solid format according to COSMOS certification, with guarantee the quality of the product
in a new concept of solid cosmetic. 59 tests were carried out to optimise this emulsion, with the
best possible hydration level. The different tests included variations in components and
their amounts, following be evaluation of sensory aspects for each formulation. The final
cosmetic emulsion formulation (Figure 1) contains components of Portuguese origin such as
grape seeds oil from Douro Valley, olive oil and extract of by-products of acorn (Quercus Ilex
L.) and essential oils of mandarin, geranium, coriander and cinnamon. The formulation has
undergone accelerated stability tests with temperatures (40 ºC /-12 ºC). The pH, density and
organoleptic characteristics were evaluate. The phenolic profile of acorn by-product (Quercus
ilex L.) was performe by UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS2. A questionnaire was applying to evaluate
the acceptance after use of the moisturizing cosmetic emulsion. In stability tests, overall the
formulation showed small color variations and less aroma intensity, maintaining hydration and
solid state. The pH changes were from 4.68 ± 0.006 to 4.78 ± 0.05 and the density was
maintaining at 0.73 kg/m3 . The polar extract of acorn by-product have as major compounds
trigalloyl-HHDP-glucose, valoneic acid dilactone and gallic acid, known as antioxidants
compounds. The essential oils bring beneficial properties to the skin and the aroma. In
the post use of solid emulsion survey applied shown that “aroma” was the second point most
valorised (47.6%), after “hydration” (90.5%). The results shown that the majority of
participants (81.0%) were “very satisfied” or “satisfied” with the solid emulsion indicating the
intention to use it if it is on the market (76.2%). This study highlights the research in
reformulations from liquid to solid products, and the potential of using Portuguese raw materials
such as acorn.
Description
Keywords
Solid emulsion COSMOS Quercus ilex L. Portuguese natural products
Citation
Possamai, Fernanda; Spencer, Ricardo; Cardoso, Susana M.; Sousa, Maria João; Pereira, Olívia R. (2021). Development of a cosmos solid emulsion. In 1st Natural products application: health, cosmetic and food: livro de resumos. ISBN 978-972-745-286-6
Publisher
Instituto Politécnico de Bragança