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Advisor(s)
Abstract(s)
The global cosmetic industry is constantly in search for bio
based ingredients with less toxic effects but providing
multifunctional properties, maintaining the structure and
function of the skin. This will, thereby, reduce the presence of
synthetic ingredients in personal care products (Taofiq, 2017).
Cosmeceuticals are the newest trend in the design of personal
care products, presenting medical drug-like benefits through
the supply of appropriate ingredients for the maintenance of a
healthy skin. They include bioactive compounds such as
phytonutrients, microbial metabolites, minerals, vitamins and
animal proteins (Taofiq, 2016a).
Mushrooms are widely consumed due to their rich nutritional
composition with recognized health promoting benefits. They
contain several bioactive compounds such as
polysaccharides, phenolics, terpenoids, nucleotides, steroids,
fatty acids, proteins and glycol-peptides that are responsible
for their antioxidant, antitumor, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial
anti-tyrosinase and other biological activities. Because of all
the above-mentioned properties, there is an increasing interest
in incorporating mushroom extracts and/or their isolated
compounds in cosmetic formulations, expecting positive
benefits on the skin. These extracts/compounds can act either
as antioxidants, preservatives or as hyperpigmentation
correcting agents (Taofiq, 2016a).
In a general way, the use of natural-derived extracts, including
mushroom extracts, as cosmeceutical ingredients can present
restrictions related with the lack of stability and ease
degradation of some of their metabolites. To overcome these
challenges, microencapsulation techniques have been utilised
taking advantage of the protection conferred by polymeric
materials, particularly natural-derived and biodegradable ones.
This ensures protection against oxidation and degradation,
controlled or target oriented release, guaranteeing that the
bioactives effectively cross the biological membranes.
The specific objective of the present work was to obtain
mushroom extracts-based ingredients for cosmeceutical
applications. Soxhlet ethanolic extracts were prepared from
Agaricus bisporus (J.E.Lange) Imbach (A) and Pleurotus
ostreatus (Jacq. ex Fr.) P.Kumm (P), thereafter chemically
characterised in terms of phenolic acids and ergosterol
contents, and screened for their anti-inflammatory,
antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-tyrosinase activities. The
extracts were then microencapsulated in calcium alginate
particles by an atomization/coagulation technique. The
produced microparticles were characterised (morphology,
particle size, encapsulation efficiency (EE%)) for subsequent
incorporation in a base cosmetic cream. The developed
formulations were evaluated for their bioactive properties, pH
and colour evolution over a 6 months’ period to ascertain the
stability of the bioactives and monitor their in vitro release
behaviour. The composition of the bioactive compounds in the
creams was also monitored by HPLC.
Description
Keywords
Research subject categories Technology
Citation
Taofiq, O. Heleno, S.A. Barros, L.; Calhelha, R.C.; Alves, M.J.; Fernandes, I.P.; González-Paramás, A.M.; Barreiro, M.F.; Ferreira, I.C.F.R. (2017). Microencapsulation of mushroom extracts for cosmeceutical design. In 25th International Conference on Bioencapsulation. La Chapelle sur Edre, Nantes, França