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Atualmente verifica-se um crescente interesse no estudo de óleos essenciais devido às suas propriedades biológicas e possíveis aplicações na indústria alimentar, farmacêutica e cosmética. O óleo essencial de sementes de funcho (Foeniculum vulgare Mill) é utilizado na culinária e também em chás devido ao seu agradável odor. O objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar o benefício da aplicação de óleo essencial de sementes de funcho (OEF) a nível fitoterapêutico e cosmético.
O OEF foi obtido por hidrodestilação e a sua composição química determinada. A nível fitoterapêutico, avaliou-se o efeito da aromaterapia na ansiedade e qualidade de vida e do sono em dois grupos de indivíduos: “Grupo Massagem” e “Grupo Aroma” (aplicação do OEF a 1,6%). Paralelamente, a toxicidade do OEF foi avaliada no modelo Artemia franciscana. Foi depois desenvolvida uma formulação cosmética e avaliada a sua estabilidade, atividade antimicrobiana e irritação ocular.
O composto maioritário do OEF foi o trans-anetol com uma percentagem de 78,2%. Os resultados do ensaio de aromaterapia mostraram uma diminuição mais evidente na Ansiedade-E no “Grupo Aroma” comparativamente ao “Grupo Massagem” com diferenças entre o Questionário 3 e 1 de -5,89 ± 14,38 e 0,1 ± 15,78, respetivamente. Na Ansiedade-T a maior diferença foi observada no Questionário 4-1 no “Grupo Massagem” com valor de -3,75 ± 17,77, no “Grupo Aroma” a maior diferença observada ocorreu entre o Questionário 1 e 2 com um valor de -2,42 ± 13,59. Relativamente ao Índice de bem-estar, o “Grupo Massagem” teve um aumento maior com a diferença de 2,30 ± 6,67 no Questionário 2-1 em relação ao “Grupo Aroma”. Na qualidade de sono houve também um aumento maior no “Grupo Massagem” comparativamente ao “Grupo Aroma” com diferença entre o Questionário 1 e 3 de -2,90 ± 4,46 e -1,69 ± 4,80, respetivamente. Em relação à formulação cosmética, no teste acelerado, verificou-se apenas um aumento da intensidade do aroma no teste organolético. O pH diminuiu para 5,2, a viscosidade aumentou o valor da densidade diminui para 0,42 g/ml comparativamente ao valor de T0. À temperatura ambiente no escuro e na luz e a 4°C, no teste espetrofotométrico, houve aumento das absorvâncias máximas em todas as condições de teste no T30 em relação ao T0. No teste de viscosidade verificou-se uma diminuição no T30 nas amostras à temperatura ambiente ao escuro e a 4°C mantendo-se idêntica à temperatura ambiente na luz comparativamente ao T0. No teste de cor ocorreu uma diminuição no valor de L* (perda de luminosidade) e no valor de b*, (amostra menos amarela). Os valores de pH variaram entre 5,1 e 5,6, e a densidade entre 0,91 e 1,15 g/ml. No teste com luz verificou-se ressecamento das amostras no T15 que se manteve constante no T30. O teste ocular HET-CAM demonstrou que a formulação cosmética não tinha potencial irritativo. A formulação cosmética não apresentou atividade contra a Propionibacterium acne. No Challenge Test apenas se verificou eficácia do OEF contra a A. brasiliensis. O teste de toxicidade com a Artemia franciscana indicou toxicidade elevada do OEF com valor de LC50 < 100 μg /ml.
O presente estudo demonstrou efeitos interessantes do OEF quando aplicado em aromaterapia, podendo ser também proposto como um ingrediente de produtos cosméticos.
Presently, we can verify a growing interest in the study of essential oils due to their biological properties and possible applications in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Fennel seed oils (Foeniculum vulgare Mill) is used in culinary and teas due to its pleasant aroma. The goal of this study is to analyse the benefits of fennel seed essential oil application (FSO) at the phytotherapeutic and comestic level. FSO is obtained by hydrodestilation and the determined chemical composition. At the phytotherapeutic level, the effects of aromatheraphy; quality of life and quality sleep was evaluated in two distinct groups of individuals: “Massage Group” and “Aroma Group” (FSO application at 1,6%). In parallel, FSO’s toxicity was evaluated in the Artemia franciscana model. Consequently, a cosmetic formula was developed, evaluating the stability, antimicrobial ativity and ocular irritation. The main compound of FSO was trans-anetol with a percentage of 78,2%. The aromatherapy testing results showed a more significant diminishing effect in the Anxiety- E parcel of the “Aroma Group” when comparing to the “Massage Group”, with differences between the Questionnaire 3 and 1 and values of -5,89 ± 14,38 and 0,1 ± 15,78, respectively. In Anxiety-T the largest difference was observed in the Questionnaire 4-1 in the “Massage Group”, with the value of -3,75 ± 17,77. In the “Aroma Group” the largest difference ocurred between the Questionnaire 1 and 2 with the value of -2,42 ± 13,59. Relatively to the well-being index, the “Massage Group” had a bigger increase with a difference of 2,30 ± 6,67 in the Questionnaire 2-1 when comparing to the “Aroma Group”. In quality of sleep, the “Massage Group” showed once again a bigger increase when compared to the “Aroma Group”, with the difference between the Questionnaire 1 and 3 of -2,90 ± 4,46 and -1,69 ± 4,80; respectively. When it comes to the cosmetic formulation, in the accelerated test, only the intensity of the aroma in the organoleptic test had an increase. pH diminished to 5,2, viscosity increased and the value of the density decreased to 0,42 g/ml when compared to the valeu of T0. In room temperature and absence of light and with light and a temperature of 4oC, the spectrophotometric test revealed an increase in the max absorbances in all conditions of the T30 test, when comparing to T0. In the viscosity test there was a decrease on T30, specifically on the samples at room temperature and absence of light and with light and a temperature of 4oC, showing identical values to T0 at room temperature and light. In the color test a decrease ocurred in the L* value (loss of luminosity) e the b* value, (sample less yellow). The pH values varied between 5,1 and 5,6 and the density between 0,91 and 1,15 g/ml. In the testing with light it was verified a sample dryness on T15 that remained constant in T30. HET-CAM ocular test demonstrated that the cosmetic formulation had no irritating potencial. The cosmetic formulation did not present activity again Propionibacterium acne. In the Challenge Test, FSO presented efficiency only against A. brasiliensis. Toxicity test with Artemia franciscana showed elevated FSO toxicity with values in the order of LC50 < 100 μg /ml. The present study indicated interesting effects of FSO when applied in aromatherapy, with the capability of also being presented as a cosmetic product ingredient.
Presently, we can verify a growing interest in the study of essential oils due to their biological properties and possible applications in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Fennel seed oils (Foeniculum vulgare Mill) is used in culinary and teas due to its pleasant aroma. The goal of this study is to analyse the benefits of fennel seed essential oil application (FSO) at the phytotherapeutic and comestic level. FSO is obtained by hydrodestilation and the determined chemical composition. At the phytotherapeutic level, the effects of aromatheraphy; quality of life and quality sleep was evaluated in two distinct groups of individuals: “Massage Group” and “Aroma Group” (FSO application at 1,6%). In parallel, FSO’s toxicity was evaluated in the Artemia franciscana model. Consequently, a cosmetic formula was developed, evaluating the stability, antimicrobial ativity and ocular irritation. The main compound of FSO was trans-anetol with a percentage of 78,2%. The aromatherapy testing results showed a more significant diminishing effect in the Anxiety- E parcel of the “Aroma Group” when comparing to the “Massage Group”, with differences between the Questionnaire 3 and 1 and values of -5,89 ± 14,38 and 0,1 ± 15,78, respectively. In Anxiety-T the largest difference was observed in the Questionnaire 4-1 in the “Massage Group”, with the value of -3,75 ± 17,77. In the “Aroma Group” the largest difference ocurred between the Questionnaire 1 and 2 with the value of -2,42 ± 13,59. Relatively to the well-being index, the “Massage Group” had a bigger increase with a difference of 2,30 ± 6,67 in the Questionnaire 2-1 when comparing to the “Aroma Group”. In quality of sleep, the “Massage Group” showed once again a bigger increase when compared to the “Aroma Group”, with the difference between the Questionnaire 1 and 3 of -2,90 ± 4,46 and -1,69 ± 4,80; respectively. When it comes to the cosmetic formulation, in the accelerated test, only the intensity of the aroma in the organoleptic test had an increase. pH diminished to 5,2, viscosity increased and the value of the density decreased to 0,42 g/ml when compared to the valeu of T0. In room temperature and absence of light and with light and a temperature of 4oC, the spectrophotometric test revealed an increase in the max absorbances in all conditions of the T30 test, when comparing to T0. In the viscosity test there was a decrease on T30, specifically on the samples at room temperature and absence of light and with light and a temperature of 4oC, showing identical values to T0 at room temperature and light. In the color test a decrease ocurred in the L* value (loss of luminosity) e the b* value, (sample less yellow). The pH values varied between 5,1 and 5,6 and the density between 0,91 and 1,15 g/ml. In the testing with light it was verified a sample dryness on T15 that remained constant in T30. HET-CAM ocular test demonstrated that the cosmetic formulation had no irritating potencial. The cosmetic formulation did not present activity again Propionibacterium acne. In the Challenge Test, FSO presented efficiency only against A. brasiliensis. Toxicity test with Artemia franciscana showed elevated FSO toxicity with values in the order of LC50 < 100 μg /ml. The present study indicated interesting effects of FSO when applied in aromatherapy, with the capability of also being presented as a cosmetic product ingredient.
Description
Keywords
Foeniculum vulgare Mill Óleo essencial Aromaterapia Formulação cosmética