Browsing by Author "Besrour, Nermine"
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- Development of semi-solid formulations containing Juglans regia L. leaves extracts for topical applicationPublication . Besrour, Nermine; Oludemi, Taofiq; Ferreira, Olga; Mezni, MohamedThe leaves of walnut trees (Juglans regia L.) stand out as a rich source of phenolic compounds and other phytochemicals. Because of that, their extracts find application as traditional herbal medicinal products and can also be valorized as potential bioactive ingredients in the cosmeceutical and food areas, among others. In this context, the main objective of this thesis is to develop a semi-solid formulation for topical use containing Juglans regia extracts and, then, to characterize and analyze the bioactive properties and stability of the final formulation. After obtaining the extract using both hydroethanolic and 1,2-propanediol mixtures, a series of bioactivity studies such as antioxidant, cytotoxic, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anti-tyrosinase and photostability were carried out. The hydroethanolic extracts were more efficient than the propanediol extract in the anti-tyrosinase, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory assays. In the antimicrobial assay both extracts showed similar microbial properties. Both extracts were found to be rich sources of phenolic compounds, being 3-O-caffeoylquinic acid, quercetin-O-pentoside, taxifolin O-pentoside isomer, quercetin 3-O-glucoside, and 3-p-coumaroylquinic acid, the most abundant compounds. The propanediol and hydroethanolic extracts were incorporated in a base cream to have the final formulation for topical application. The stability of the final formulation was studied according to the following parameters: pH, color, phenolic compounds, and antioxidant activity. After incorporation into the base cream, the hydroethanolic extract preserved its phenolic compounds content over time at different storage conditions. Regarding the formulation containing propanediol extract, quercetin 3-O-glucoside and traces of other compounds were identified due to the small amount of incorporated extract. Both final formulations also presented antioxidant activity and a pH ranging from 3.8 and 4.7 which is compatible within the range of normal skin. These preliminary results suggest the potential use of J. regia extracts as a source of bioactive compounds for further incorporation into skin care products. Further work should be carried out to assess a longer term stability, safety and toxicity of these extracts.
- Development of semi-solid formulations containing Juglans regia L. leaves extracts for tropical applicationPublication . Besrour, Nermine; Chammakhi, Yosra; Pinela, José; Mezni, Mohamed; Caleja, Cristina; Pereira, Carla; Abreu, Rui M.V.; Alves, Maria José; Taofiq, Oludemi; Barros, Lillian; Ferreira, OlgaNowadays, cosmetic brands are urged to follow sustainable development strategies via circular economy and low carbon footprint processes. Using ingredients from agri-food waste to generate new cosmetic products and environmentally friendly solvents are one of the paths to meet those challenges [1]. In this regard, glycerol and alkanediols can be seen as alternative solvents to extract phytochemicals from plant material due to their potential application in the cosmetics area. In this work, the leaves of walnut trees (Juglans regia L.) were studied as a source of bioactive compounds. Their extracts are already used in traditional herbal medicine but can be further valorised as potential bioactive ingredients in the cosmeceutical area. The extracts were obtained using aqueous solutions of ethanol or 1,2-propanediol, and diverse bioactivity studies (antioxidant, cytotoxic, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anti-tyrosinase, and photostability) were carried out. Better results were obtained with the hydroethanolic extracts in the anti-tyrosinase, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory dimensions. In the antimicrobial assay, both extracts showed similar microbial properties. The main phytochemicals identified in both extracts were 3-O-caffeoylquinic acid, quercetin-O-pentoside, taxifolin-O-pentoside isomer, quercetin 3-O-glucoside, and 3-p-coumaroylquinic acid. After, the propanediol and hydroethanolic extracts were incorporated in a commercial base cream, aiming to design a formulation for topical application. The following parameters were studied to evaluate the stability of the final formulation: pH, colour, phenolic compounds content, and antioxidant activity. The formulation containing the hydroethanolic extract was the best to conserve the identified phenolic compounds for 30 days, at different temperature conditions (5 ºC, 20 ºC, and 40 ºC). The formulation containing the propanediol extract should be redesigned by incorporating higher amounts of extract. Both formulations presented relevant antioxidant activity and a favourable pH range of 3.8 to 4.7. These preliminary results suggest the potential application of J. regia extracts as an ingredient for incorporation into skin care products as they showed a very satisfactory chemical and physical stability at the studied time and temperature storage conditions. Nevertheless, additional studies will be performed not only to evaluate their stability over longer periods of time, but also their safety and toxicity.
- Valorization of Juglans regia leaves as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioactivity evaluation and final formulation developmentPublication . Besrour, Nermine; Oludemi, Taofiq; Mandim, Filipa; Pereira, Carla; Dias, Maria Inês; Soković, Marina; Stojković, Dejan; Ferreira, Olga; Ferreira, Isabel C.F.R.; Barros, LillianThe cosmetic industry is constantly searching for bioactive ingredients, namely, those obtained from natural sources with environmentally friendly connotations and less toxic effects. A previous study of our research group optimized the extraction of phenolic compounds from Juglans regia by heat-assisted extraction. Due to its richness in different phenolic compounds, the present work aimed to develop a formulation containing J. regia leaf extract. The extract’s antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, cytotoxicity, and photostability properties were evaluated. The extract was then incorporated into an O/W base cream, followed by characterization of the final formulation in terms of its antioxidant properties, phenolic composition, and stability over time and at different storage conditions. The most abundant compounds in the hydroethanolic extract were 3-O-caffeoylquinic acid (18.30 0.04 mg/g), quercetin-O-pentoside (9.64 0.06 mg/g), and quercetin 3-O-glucoside (6.70 0.19 mg/g). Besides those, the extract presented antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound closure, and antibacterial effects against several skin pathogens. In addition, HaCaT cell viability was maintained up to 98% at 400 g/mL.Within Proteus vulgaris-infected HaCaT cells, the extract also presented an over 40% bacterial mortality rate at its nontoxic concentration (200 g/mL). After incorporating the extract, the obtained formulation presented a good physicochemical profile over time and at different storage conditions while also maintaining its antioxidant effect; as such, it can be considered stable for topical application. Future work to evaluate its performance in terms of skin permeation and detailed toxicological studies with a focus on regulatory requirements, involving skin irritation, eye irritation, genotoxicity, photoirritation, and dermal absorption, should be conducted, as the prepared formulation demonstrated relevant properties that deserve to be further explored.