Browsing by Author "Alvarez Arraibi, Ana"
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- Apple pomace as a source of phenolic compounds with potential application in cosmetic productPublication . Alvarez Arraibi, Ana; Barreira, João C.M.; Barros, Lillian; Dias, Maria Inês; Mandim, Filipa; Ferreira, Isabel C.F.R.Apple pomace is aby-product that might be considered as a competitive source ofalarge number ofbioactive compounds (particularly phenolic compounds) with potentially valuable applications. Interestingly, the maj or part ofthese bioactive compounds is found in apple peel, thereby becoming more concentrated in apple pomace when compared to the fresh fruit [l]. Phenolic compounds in apple pomace (e.g., hydroxycinnamic acids, flavonoids and dihydrochalcones) display health promoting activities, mainly based on their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties [2]. Therefore, these compounds represent a promising cosmeceutical potential. In fact, apple polyphenols already showed to inhibit the fat production of sebaceous cells, making them appropriate to be used in anti-acne cosmetic formulations [3]. In the work described herein, apple pomace was dehydrated using two diflferent processes: oven drying (60 °C) and lyophilisation. Phenolic compounds were extracted from apple pomace using food grade solvents (water and ethanol) in different proportions. Phenolic compounds' profiles were further characterized by high performance liquid chromatography using a diode array detector coupled to a mass spectrometer. In what regarás dehydraüon process, lyophilized samples showed a higher number ofphenolic compounds, as also higher quantities of those detected in ali prepared extracts. The major phenolic compound was 5-0-cafFeoylquinic acid (»108 mg/100 g dw), but flavonoids, specifically flavan-3-ols, were also detected in significant leveis. Among these, four quercetin derivatives (differing in the sugar unit) and isorhamnetin-3-0- rutinoside were quantified in similar concentrations (»20 mg/100 g dw). The remaining compounds were 4-0-caífeoylquinic acid (»16 mg/100 g dw), B-type (epi)-catechin dimer, trimer and tetramer (»16 mg/100 g dw, »5 mg/100 g dw and »3 mg/100 g dw, respectively), and phloretin-2-O-xyloglucoside (»5 mg/100 gdw). Overall, the detected profiles raise the possibility of using apple pomace, which is a competitive starting material when compared to other natural matrices, as an alternative source ofthis type of phenolic compounds. Owing to their reported bioactivity, these compounds may further be included in diflFerent applications as exemplified by cosmetic formulations, considering their ability to inhibit fat production in sebaceous cells.
- Chemical and bioactive characterization of spanish and belgian apple pomace for its potential use as a novel dermocosmetic formulationPublication . Alvarez Arraibi, Ana; Liberal, Ângela; Dias, Maria Inês; Alves, Maria José; Ferreira, Isabel C.F.R.; Barros, Lillian; Barreira, João C.M.Currently, there is a general trend towards reutilizing industrial by-products that would otherwise be discarded or considered as waste, aiming to explore them as alternative sources of valuable compounds. The apple pomace remaining from cider and apple juice industries represents a high-potential source of bioactive compounds with putative application in food or pharmaceuticalrelated products. Accordingly, the work reported herein was conducted to characterize the phenolic compounds in apple pomace from Belgium and Spain, as well as to evaluate its chemical composition and particular types of bioactivity. As a proof of concept, a new hydrogel was prepared, incorporated with the bioactive compounds and pectin extracted from apple pomace, aiming to obtain the most organic formulation possible. Independently of the extracting agent, it became evident that using lyophilization as the drying step is a better choice than thermal processes as it yielded a richer phenolic profile (fifteen individual compounds), with 5-O-caffeoylquinic acid as the major compound (66 to 114 mg/100 g dw) in Belgian samples. In general, the hydroethanolic extracts showed the strongest antioxidant and antimicrobial (particularly against Propionibacterium acnes: MIC = 2.5 mg/mL) activities. This result, together with the lipid nature of human skin, led it to be chosen as the extract type to be incorporated in the hydrogel. In general, apple pomace stood out as a valuable source of bioactive compounds, especially polyphenols and pectin, with good potential to be incorporated in dermal formulations.
- Cosmeceutical potential of apple pomace phenolic compounds: development of a natural-based dermal hydrogel as proof of conceptPublication . Alvarez Arraibi, AnaCurrently, there is an evident trend towards incorporating natural-based ingredients in dermal formulations. In addition to the growing consumers’ acceptance, these natural ingredients are not associated with such a high number of side effects as in the case of most artificial components. Likewise, and following a circular economy approach, there is an overall attempt to find added-value applications among materials that would be otherwise discarded or considered as waste. Apple pomace might be considered as a striking example of these industrial by-products. In fact, apple pomace remaining from cider and juice pressing industries represents a competitive source of a large number of phenolic compounds. Interestingly, the major part of these bioactive compounds is found in apple peel and remain in apple pomace after the pressing procedure. Phenolic compounds present in apple pomace (e.g., hydroxycinnamic acids, flavonoids and di-hydrochalcones) display health promoting activities, mainly based on their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. Therefore, they seem to be a promising cosmeceutical aimed to promote the health and beauty of skin. In addition, apple pomace has a high concentration of pectin, which can be used for its jellifying properties. This research study focused in the evaluation of bioactive and chemical characterization of different apple pomace extracts. Special attention was dedicated to their phenolic profile, as well as their antioxidant and antimicrobial (specifically against different bacteria present on the skin, e.g., Propionibacterium acnes, which is linked to acne). The best extract was the mixture of ethanol:water (80:20), which proved to have the highest antimicrobial potential against P. acnes. Accordingly, this extract was later incorporated in a novel dermal hydrogel, where pectin, extracted from apple pomace by hot acid extraction, was used as jellifying agent. This hydrogel was further evaluated for its bioactivity, revealing the maintenance of antioxidant and antibacterial activity of the incorporated extract.