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Utilization of bee products on the development of cosmetic formulation with terpenes preservatives from Trás-os-Montes aromatic plants

2021Conference poster Open access
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dc.contributor.authorJelidi, Sarra
dc.contributor.authorPereira, Olívia R.
dc.contributor.authorAfonso, Andrea Luísa Fernandes
dc.contributor.authorPedro, Luís G.
dc.contributor.authorCardoso, Susana M.
dc.contributor.authorSousa, Maria João
dc.date.accessioned2021-03-03T11:11:44Z
dc.date.available2021-03-03T11:11:44Z
dc.date.issued2021
dc.description.abstractThe use of natural cosmetics is nowadays becoming increasingly frequent given to the notice of consumers to the consequences of using chemically synthesized compounds, which may even be carcinogenic. This work aimed to develop a cream formulation for daily moisturizing of the skin, with natural ingredients, like bee products, plants of the region of Trás-Os-Montes and vegetable oils. Among bee products, beeswax was chosen for its properties, like skin repairing power and antimicrobial power. In more detail, two sage plants (Salvia officinalis and Salvia elegans) and the thyme species Thymus zygis subsp. zygis were used as sources of antioxidants. The phenolic profile of the hydroalcoholic extracts of sage were elucidated by UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS2 analysis, while the composition of the essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis was determined by GC/ GC-MS. The antimicrobial activities were evaluated by microdilution broth method and by diffusion agar test. The obtained formulations were subjected to physicochemical and microbiological stability tests. The major phenolic components of S. officinalis extract were rosmarinic acid, apigenin-Oglucuronide, scutellarein-O-glucuronide and luteolin-7-O-glucuronide while S. elegans was mostly composed by rosmarinic acid, salvianolic acid K, luteolin-7-O-glucuronide and caffeic acid. The GC/ GC-MS analysis of essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis was mainly composed of carvacrol, cymene and trans-sabinene hydrate. The formulations had pH values slightly acid, similar to the skin pH. No phase separation or alteration of the organoleptic criteria of the formulations were observed. The stability of the products was also verified by spectrophotometer within the UV visible region between 210 and 600 nm, especially the sample containing olive oil and 5% of S. elegans hydroalcoholic extract. A non- Newtonien behavior, criterion sought in cosmetic creams, was also observed during the analysis by the texturometer. Additionally, the thyme volatile oil, used as a preservative in the cream, showed an inhibitory effect against Staphylococcus aureus (MIC and MBC < 0.031%), Pseudomonas sp (MIC and MBC = 1.25%), Escherichia coli (MIC and MBC = 0.31%) and Candida albicans. Above a degree of 0.31%, thyme oil showed in C. albicans, inhibition zones varying from 2 to 9.5 mm against C. albicans, in the agar diffusion test. The promising results of these work allows propose beeswax, S. officinalis, S. elegans and T. zygis subsp. zygis as active ingredients for natural cosmetic formulations.pt_PT
dc.description.sponsorshipThanks to FCT (Portugal) and the ERDF under the PT2020 Program for financial support to CIMO (UIDB/00690/2020) and LAQVREQUIMTE (UIDB/50006/2020). SMC acknowledges the research contract under the project AgroForWealth (CENTRO-01-0145- FEDER-000001).pt_PT
dc.description.versioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionpt_PT
dc.identifier.citationJelidi, Sarra; Pereira, Olívia R.; Afonso, Andrea F.; Pedro, Luís; Cardoso, Susana M.; Sousa, Maria João (2021). Utilization of bee products on the development of cosmetic formulation with terpenes preservatives from Trás-os-Montes aromatic plants. In 1st Natural products application: health, cosmetic and food. Onlinept_PT
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10198/23459
dc.language.isoengpt_PT
dc.peerreviewedyespt_PT
dc.publisherInstituto Politécnico de Bragançapt_PT
dc.rights.urihttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/pt_PT
dc.subjectBeeswaxpt_PT
dc.subjectSagept_PT
dc.subjectSalviapt_PT
dc.subjectThymuspt_PT
dc.subjectUHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS analysispt_PT
dc.subjectMoisturizing creampt_PT
dc.subjectEssential oilpt_PT
dc.titleUtilization of bee products on the development of cosmetic formulation with terpenes preservatives from Trás-os-Montes aromatic plantspt_PT
dc.typeconference poster
dspace.entity.typePublication
oaire.citation.conferencePlaceOnlinept_PT
oaire.citation.title1st Natural products application: health, cosmetic and foodpt_PT
person.familyNamePereira
person.familyNameAfonso
person.familyNameSousa
person.givenNameOlívia R.
person.givenNameAndrea Luísa Fernandes
person.givenNameMaria João
person.identifier145216
person.identifier.ciencia-idB312-AF21-D2FA
person.identifier.ciencia-id9C1D-41E7-9BBF
person.identifier.ciencia-idD91E-3571-3979
person.identifier.orcid0000-0002-6275-3134
person.identifier.orcid0000-0002-8858-1617
person.identifier.orcid0000-0002-9946-4926
person.identifier.ridH-1049-2014
person.identifier.scopus-author-id52264387000
person.identifier.scopus-author-id36766901000
person.identifier.scopus-author-id55230282700
rcaap.rightsopenAccesspt_PT
rcaap.typeconferenceObjectpt_PT
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relation.isAuthorOfPublication.latestForDiscoverye8fdab9a-3ad6-47e6-b90c-7a37aabcb453

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