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Microencapsulation of Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) in Arabic Gum/Gelatine A Coacervates and Its Incorporation into Cosmetics: Evaluation of Skin Barrier Function and Ageing Indicators

2026Artigo científico Acesso aberto
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datacite.subject.fosEngenharia e Tecnologia::Engenharia Química
datacite.subject.fosCiências Médicas::Ciências da Saúde
datacite.subject.sdg04:Educação de Qualidade
datacite.subject.sdg03:Saúde de Qualidade
dc.contributor.authorKessler, Júlia Cristiê
dc.contributor.authorMartins, Isabel M.
dc.contributor.authorManrique, Yaidelin A.
dc.contributor.authorGudjónsdóttir, Sigrún Dögg
dc.contributor.authorRodrigues, Alírio E.
dc.contributor.authorBarreiro, Filomena
dc.contributor.authorDias, Madalena Maria
dc.date.accessioned2026-06-24T18:52:29Z
dc.date.available2026-06-24T18:52:29Z
dc.date.issued2026
dc.description.abstractEpidermal Growth Factor (EGF) plays an important role in skin regeneration and repair by promoting cell proliferation and collagen synthesis. However, its topical application is limited by low stability, susceptibility to degradation, and poor penetration through the stratum corneum due to its hydrophilic nature and relatively large molecular size. Microencapsulation offers a strategy to protect sensitive bioactives and improve their delivery in cosmetic formulations. In this study, EGF was encapsulated in Arabic gum/gelatine A (AG/GE) coacervate microcapsules and incorporated into a hydrating cream. The work extends previous studies using the same microcapsule composition for lipophilic compounds, demonstrating its applicability for a hydrophilic bioactive and highlighting the versatility of the encapsulation platform. The resulting microcapsules exhibited spherical, multinucleated morphology with an encapsulation efficiency of 78.8 + 1.0%. Although diffusion of microencapsulated EGF in the cream could not be directly determined, the formulation showed trends towards improvement in several skin parameters during the volunteer evaluation, including reduction in surface spots (31%), brown spots (21%) and pore visibility (10%), and improved texture (22%). A 25% decrease in transepidermal water loss and a 33% increase in elasticity suggested improved skin barrier function. Volunteers reported high acceptance regarding non-irritancy, texture, and sensory experience.eng
dc.description.sponsorshipThis work was financially supported by Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia, I.P./MCTES through national funds: LSRE-LCM, UID/50020/2025 (https://doi.org/10.54499/UID/50020/2025); ALiCE, LA/P/0045/2020 (https://doi.org/10.54499/LA/P/0045/2020); CIMO, UIDB/00690/2025 (https://doi.org/10.54499/UID/00690/2025) and UID/PRR/00690/2025 (https://doi.org/10.54499/UID/PRR/00690/2025); and SusTEC, LA/P/0007/2020 (https://doi.org/10.54499/LA/P/0007/2020). Júlia Cristiê Kessler acknowledges her PhD scholarship (ref. 2020.06656.BD, (https://doi.org/10.54499/2020.06656.BD) from FCT. All experimentation from cosmetic production to volunteer skin assessments were conducted at BIOEFFECT ehf. (https://www.bioeffect.com, Reykjavík, Iceland) inspired by the in-house methodologies under an agreement established between BIOEFFECT and the Faculty of Engineering of the University of Porto. The authors extend their gratitude to BIOEFFECT for their invaluable support during J.C. Kessler’s stay at their facility. During the preparation of this manuscript/study, the author(s) used AI (ChatGPT-5) for the purposes of text editing (e.g., grammar, structure, spelling, punctuation, and formatting). The authors have reviewed and edited the output and take full responsibility for the content of this publication.
dc.identifier.citationKessler, Júlia Cristiê; Martins, Isabel M.; Manrique, Yaidelin A.; Gudjónsdóttir, Sigrún Dögg; Rodrigues, Alírio E.; Barreiro, Filomena; Dias, Madalena Maria (2026). Microencapsulation of Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) in Arabic Gum/Gelatine A Coacervates and Its Incorporation into Cosmetics: Evaluation of Skin Barrier Function and Ageing Indicators. Cosmetics. ISSN 2079-9284. 13:2, p. 1-17
dc.identifier.doi10.3390/cosmetics13020089
dc.identifier.issn2079-9284
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10198/36937
dc.language.isoeng
dc.peerreviewedyes
dc.publisherMDPI
dc.relationLSRE - Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering
dc.relationALICE - Associate Laboratory in Chemical Engineering
dc.relationCIMO - Mountain Research Center - UID/PRR/00690/2025
dc.relationMountain Research Center - UID/00690/2025
dc.relationAssociate Laboratory for Sustainability and Tecnology in Mountain Regions - LA/P/0007/2020
dc.relationSupercritical extraction and NETmix technology to produce green and stabilized M. oleifera functional ingredients having in view cosmeceutical formulations
dc.relation.ispartofCosmetics
dc.rights.urihttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
dc.subjectDelivery
dc.subjectEGF
dc.subjectFormulation
dc.subjectMicroencapsulation
dc.subjectSkin
dc.titleMicroencapsulation of Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) in Arabic Gum/Gelatine A Coacervates and Its Incorporation into Cosmetics: Evaluation of Skin Barrier Function and Ageing Indicatorseng
dc.typejournal article
dspace.entity.typePublication
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oaire.awardTitleLSRE - Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering
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oaire.awardTitleMountain Research Center - UID/00690/2025
oaire.awardTitleAssociate Laboratory for Sustainability and Tecnology in Mountain Regions - LA/P/0007/2020
oaire.awardTitleSupercritical extraction and NETmix technology to produce green and stabilized M. oleifera functional ingredients having in view cosmeceutical formulations
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/5876/UID%2FEQU%2F50020%2F2013/PT
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/LA%2FP%2F0045%2F2020/PT
oaire.awardURIhttp://hdl.handle.net/10198/36356
oaire.awardURIhttp://hdl.handle.net/10198/35759
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/LA%2FP%2F0007%2F2020/PT
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/POR_NORTE/2020.06656.BD/PT
oaire.citation.endPage17
oaire.citation.issue2
oaire.citation.startPage1
oaire.citation.titleCosmetics
oaire.citation.volume13
oaire.fundingStream5876
oaire.fundingStream6817 - DCRRNI ID
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oaire.versionhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85
person.familyNameBarreiro
person.givenNameFilomena
person.identifier.ciencia-id3418-47D5-5746
person.identifier.orcid0000-0002-6844-333X
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