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- Development of a cosmetic anti-aging gel formulation with extracts of spontaneous plants and cultivars of Humulus lupulus L.Publication . Santos, Briolanja; Pereira, Olívia R.; Afonso, Andrea Luísa Fernandes; Pedro, Luís G.; Cardoso, Susana M.; Sousa, Maria JoãoHop (Humulus lupulus L.) is known worldwide as an essential flavor in the beer industry. Its major compounds have been demonstrated to be associated to health benefits, due to its antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anticancer activities [1]. This study intended to develop and to evaluate the stability of an anti-aging cosmetic gel by incorporation of different percentages of hydroalcoholic extracts obtained from cones (flowers) and vegetative parts (leaves) of hop spontaneous and of the Cascade and Polaris cultivars and essential oil of Thymus zygis. In addition, the phytochemical profile and antimicrobial activities determination of hop extracts and of essential oil of thymus were performed. A methylcellulose gel formulation was used as base to develop the hop cosmetic product. Subsequently, several parameters were evaluated to address its physical-chemical stability. In addition to that, the phenolic profile of hop extracts was determined by UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS2 [2] while the composition of thyme essential oil was done by GC and GC-MS. The ability to inhibit the microbial growth was performed by microdilution broth method and the diffusion in agar test. Contrary to hop extracts, thyme oil has shown to exert antibacterial and antifungal activities and thus, it was added to the formulation as preservative. Carvacrol, terpinen-4-ol and p-cimene, determined as major compounds in this oil, could be important contributors for these activities. The extracts obtained from hop cones were rich in phenolic compounds such as cohumulone, humulone and xanthohumol, which have been claimed as possessing anti-wrinkle effect [3]. Concerning stability of the formulations, no phase separation was observed in the centrifugation, mechanical vibration tests or the color tests. However, changes were observed in the UV-Visible spectra between 300nm to 350nm wavelengths, probably by presence of the phenolic compounds such as example xanthohumol, cohumulona, humulona and lupulona [3]. In texture by back extrusion, only the formulation with the extracts of the Polaris variety has high consistency and low viscosity. In the light test there was phase separation in the samples due to the occurrence of dehydration, to minimize this effect, it must be properly in a non-transparent packaging to protect from light. Overall, the incorporation of hydroalcoholic extracts of hop and essential oil of thyme in methylcellulose gel formulations, especially with Polaris variety with 2.5% hydroalcoholic extract of hop cones, allow to obtained a stable cosmetic with potential as anti-aging take into account the chemical composition.
- Humulus lupulus L.: cosmetic application of extracts obtained from cones and vegetative partsPublication . Alves, Silena Silva Delgado; Afonso, Andrea Luísa Fernandes; Cardoso, Susana M.; Sousa, Maria João; Pereira, Olívia R.Nowadays there is an increasing interest in the search for bioactive compounds obtained from aromatic and medicinal plants. Hop (Humulus lupulus L.) is known worldwide as an essential raw material for the beer industry, however, recent studies have revealed health benefits. In the beer production process, only the cones of hop are used, while the vegetative part of the plant is discarded and not valorized albeit its richness in interesting compounds. In this work, we have studied the phytochemical profile of polar extracts of hop and of the essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis, and further evaluated their antibacterial and antifungal capacities. Moreover, gel formulations incorporating distinct levels of hop extracts (1.25%, 2.5% and 5%) from cones and vegetative parts of the varieties Nugget and Polaris of hop and spontaneous hop, combined with essential oil of Thymus zygis subsp. zygis, were developed and the stability of the new cosmetic products was evaluated. UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS2 analysis was used for phytochemical study of hydroalcoholic hop extracts. The antimicrobial properties of these extracts and of the essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis were determined by microdilution broth method and the diffusion in agar test. Additionally, the stability of the gel formulations was evaluated through a series of physical-chemical tests such as the pH, density, texture evaluation, mechanical vibration, centrifugation, relative humidity, light test, consecutive extreme temperature variation and evaluation of organoleptic characteristics. The stability tests did not reveal phase separation or liquefaction of the prepared gel samples. There were no changes recorded in vibration test, in the organoleptic characteristics of the formulations, the relative humidity test, as well as in the extreme temperature variation test. The formulations showed an acid pH, between 5.93±0.047 and 6.16±0.047. The apparent density of the formulations were between 1.08±0.00 Kg/m-3 and 1.12±0.00 Kg/m-3. Although hop extracts had no antimicrobial effect, the essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis showed antibacterial and antifungal activities against all strains of bacteria and fungi tested, with higher potency against S. aureus (MIC = 0.031%) than for P. aeruginosa (MIC = 1.25%). The study of the phenolic profile of cones and vegetative parts of the polar extracts of hop, allowed the identification of thirty compounds, of which alpha and beta acids, phenolic acids and flavonoids. In conclusion, the study explored the vegetative part of hop that remain poorly studied allowing propose them as ingredient in cosmetic area.
- Development of a cosmetic anti-aging gel formulation with extracts of spontaneous plants and cultivars of Humulus lupulus L.Publication . Santos, Briolanja; Pereira, Olívia R.; Afonso, Andrea Luísa Fernandes; Pedro, Luís G.; Cardoso, Susana M.; Sousa, Maria JoãoHop (Humulus lupulus L.) is known worldwide as an essential flavor in the beer industry. Its major compounds have been demonstrated to be associated to health benefits, due to its antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anticancer activities [1]. This study intended to develop and to evaluate the stability of an anti-aging cosmetic gel by incorporation of different percentages of hydroalcoholic extracts obtained from cones (flowers) and vegetative parts (leaves) of hop spontaneous and of the Cascade and Polaris cultivars and essential oil of Thymus zygis. In addition, the phytochemical profile and antimicrobial activities determination of hop extracts and of essential oil of thymus were performed. A methylcellulose gel formulation was used as base to develop the hop cosmetic product. Subsequently, several parameters were evaluated to address its physical-chemical stability. In addition to that, the phenolic profile of hop extracts was determined by UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS2 [2] while the composition of thyme essential oil was done by GC and GC-MS. The ability to inhibit the microbial growth was performed by microdilution broth method and the diffusion in agar test. Contrary to hop extracts, thyme oil has shown to exert antibacterial and antifungal activities and thus, it was added to the formulation as preservative. Carvacrol, terpinen-4-ol and p-cimene, determined as major compounds in this oil, could be important contributors for these activities. The extracts obtained from hop cones were rich in phenolic compounds such as cohumulone, humulone and xanthohumol, which have been claimed as possessing anti-wrinkle effect [3]. Concerning stability of the formulations, no phase separation was observed in the centrifugation, mechanical vibration tests or the color tests. However, changes were observed in the UV-Visible spectra between 300nm to 350nm wavelengths, probably by presence of the phenolic compounds such as example xanthohumol, cohumulona, humulona and lupulona [3]. In texture by back extrusion, only the formulation with the extracts of the Polaris variety has high consistency and low viscosity. In the light test there was phase separation in the samples due to the occurrence of dehydration, to minimize this effect, it must be properly in a non-transparent packaging to protect from light. Overall, the incorporation of hydroalcoholic extracts of hop and essential oil of thyme in methylcellulose gel formulations, especially with Polaris variety with 2.5% hydroalcoholic extract of hop cones, allow to obtained a stable cosmetic with potential as anti-aging take into account the chemical composition.