Browsing by Author "Bouranen, Amira"
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- Desenvolvimento e determinação da estabilidade de uma formulação cosmética anti-idade com incorporação de pólenPublication . Bouranen, Amira; Mosbah, Habib; Martins, Vitor Manuel Ramalheira; Sousa, Maria JoãoAtualmente, os produtos apicolas, como ê o caso do pólen, crescem em popularidade como ingredientes cosméticos devido às suas propriedades ativas e aos diferentes papéis que podem desempenhar numa fórmula cosmética, como hidratante, fragrância, excipiente (surfatante), conservante, etc. O pólen de abelha sendo rico em vários aminoácidos essenciais, como metionina, lisina, treonina, histidina, pode ser um nutriente essencial para a pele. Rico em lípidos, ácidos gordos livres essenciais, como o ácido linoleico, y-linolénico e araquídico. O pólen contém ainda minerais: potássio, cálcio, magnésio e fósforo. É fonte de vitaminas hidrossolúveis: vitamina C, vitaminas do complexo B, vitaminas lipossolúveis (vitamina E e p-caroteno) [1]. Vários estudos atribuem propriedades anti-microbianas e antioxidantes, tornando-o um potente suplemento anti-idade para a pele madura [2]. O objetivo deste trabalho foi formular e avaliar a estabilidade de um gel anti-idade baseado em produtos naturais: pólen de abelha (princípio ativo) e óleos essenciais de duas variedades de tomilho, espécie portuguesa Thymus zygis zygis e tunisina Thymus capitatus (conservante natural). A formulação cosmética foi avaliada relativamente ao seu comportamento de fluxo, estabilidade físico-química, atividade anti-microbiana, toxicidade aguda e irritabilidade ocular [3]. A formulação cosmética evidenciou um comportamento de fluxo não-newtoniano, que é frequentemente observado em produtos cosméticos, bem como valores de pH adequados à pele. Para além disso, não foi observada separação de fases após os ensaios de centrifugação e vibração, nem indícios de potencial toxicidade aguda ou irritabilidade ocular [4].
- Desenvolvimento e determinação da estabilidade de uma formulação cosmética anti-idade com incorporação de pólenPublication . Bouranen, Amira; Mosbah, Habib; Sousa, Maria João; Martins, Vitor Manuel RamalheiraAtualmente, os produtos apicolas, como ê o caso do pólen, crescem em popularidade como ingredientes cosméticos devido às suas propriedades ativas e aos diferentes papéis que podem desempenhar numa fórmula cosmética, como hidratante, fragrância, excipiente (surfatante), conservante, etc. O pólen de abelha sendo rico em vários aminoácidos essenciais, como metionina, lisina, treonina, histidina, pode ser um nutriente essencial para a pele. Rico em lípidos, ácidos gordos livres essenciais, como o ácido linoleico, y-linolénico e araquídico. O pólen contém ainda minerais: potássio, cálcio, magnésio e fósforo. É fonte de vitaminas hidrossolúveis: vitamina C, vitaminas do complexo B, vitaminas lipossolúveis (vitamina E e p-caroteno) [1]. Vários estudos atribuem propriedades anti-microbianas e antioxidantes, tornando-o um potente suplemento anti-idade para a pele madura [2]. O objetivo deste trabalho foi formular e avaliar a estabilidade de um gel anti-idade baseado em produtos naturais: pólen de abelha (princípio ativo) e óleos essenciais de duas variedades de tomilho, espécie portuguesa Thymus zygis zygis e tunisina Thymus capitatus (conservante natural). A formulação cosmética foi avaliada relativamente ao seu comportamento de fluxo, estabilidade físico-química, atividade anti-microbiana, toxicidade aguda e irritabilidade ocular [3].
- Determination of the stability of cosmetic formulations with incorporation of natural productsPublication . Bouranen, Amira; Sousa, Maria João; Martins, Vitor Manuel Ramalheira; Mosbah, HabibNowadays, natural products are gaining increased popularity as cosmetic ingredients due to their active properties and the different roles they can play in a single cosmetic formula, acting as moisturizers, fragrances, surfactants and preservatives. The aim of this study is to formulate and subsequently evaluate the stability of an anti-aging gel based on natural products namely, bee pollen and essential oils from two species of thymus, Portuguese species Thymus zygis subsp zygis and Tunisian species Thymus capitatus applied as natural preservatives. The stability of the cosmetic formulations was evaluated through a series of physicochemical assays, such as pH, density and viscosity determinations, thermic stress tests, evaluation of the organoleptic characteristics (odor, color and general aspect), UV spectrophotometric analysis, centrifuge test, test of vibration, and also through light test. The formulation also evaluated for its resistance and activity against a variety of microorganisms such as: Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Escherichia coli and Candida albicans. The microbiological stability of the formulations was evaluated through agar diffusion assays using cultures of Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Candida albicans, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. The safety of the formulations were evaluated through the determination of the acute toxicity of the compounds incorporated in the base formulation using brine shrimp (Artemia salina) mobility assay and also through the evaluation of their ocular irritancy using Hen's egg-test on the chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM test). The cosmetic formulations prepared presented a pH value that seems adequate for topic application, and presented a non-Newtonian flow behaviour (shear thinning), which is frequently observed in cosmetic products, besides evidencing no phase separation after centrifuge except the formulation containing methylparaben and bee pollen. No phase separation in all the formulations tested during the vibration test. Organoleptic stability of the formulations was achieved during 2 weeks. The results presented in this study showed good stability throughout the experimental period. All the formulations tested showed a good physical and chemical stability. In addition, the findings suggested that the gel formulations with higher concentration of thyme oils and/or methylparaben have apromising antibacterial Abstract xiii effect against the proliferation of various microorganisms namely S. aureus, P. aeruginosa, E. coli and C. albicans evidencing bacteriostatic effect. S. aureus was the most sensitive bacteria with an inhibition zone ranging from 10 to 25 mm. Moreover, it was observed that the formulations in which bee pollen and thyme oils were incorporated did not caused any irritant reaction on the chorioallantoic membrane of chicken embryo. Also, the previous cited products did not show a toxic effect through Artemia assay with LC50 higher than 1mg/mL (1.88 g/mL, 1.94 g/mL, and 17.78 g/mL for Thymus zygis zygis essential oil, Thymus capitatus essential oil, and for bee pollen, respectively). Therefore, the tests performed suggested that the various cosmetic formulations prepared through the incorporation of bee pollen, Thymus zygis zygis and Thymus capitatus essential oils present characteristics suitable for topic use. Also, the incorporation of the natural products did not seem to influence negatively the stability of the cosmetic formulations. During the present work, it was consistently observed a fungal contamination of the cosmetic formulations based on bee pollen. Different methodologies, such as aseptic practices, freeze-drying and heat treatment were used to overcome it. However only by increasing the preservatives concentration, a decrease in fungi growth was registered.
- Development and determination of the stability of cosmetic formulation with incorporation of natural productsPublication . Bouranen, Amira; Mosbah, Habib; Martins, Vitor Manuel Ramalheira; Sousa, Maria JoãoNowadays, natural products are gaining increased popularity as cosmetic ingredients due to their active properties and the different roles they can play in a single cosmetic formula, acting as active ingredients (moisturizers), fragrance (perfumes), excipients (surfactants) and additives (preservatives). The aim of this study is to formulate and subsequently evaluate the stability of an anti-aging gel based on natural product namely, bee pollen, which is used as pigment and active compound due to its intresting properties and essential oil from two varieties of thymus, Portuguese species Thymus zygis zygis and Tunisian species Thymus capitatus applied as natural preservative. The formulations selected were submitted to accelerated stability studies using various physical-chemical parameters such as pH, density, viscosity, themic analysis (freeze and thaw cycles),thermic stress, organoleptic characteristics (odor, color and aspect), UV spectrophotometric analysis, centrifuge test, tests of vibration, texture, spreading resistance and also through light test. The formulation was also evaluated for its resistance and activity against skin microorganisms such as: Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas sp., Escherichia coli. The acute toxicity of the compound incorporated in the base formulation is determined through the evaluation of Brine shrimp (Artemia salina) mobility. The microbiological stability of the formulations is also evaluated through agar diffusion assays using cultures of Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas ssp, Bacillus subtilis and Candida albicans. Regarding to the tests were done; centrifuge test and vibration test, there is no evidence of phase separation, which means that the formulation maintains its stability. For pH test, the formulations showed a suitable pH for body skin and no evidence of phase separation. The others tests are being evaluated.